Misted Hills

It’s damp and chilly in the Aerie this morning. I am glad to be wearing a scarf around my neck, and even more glad to be weaving another one.  I am sampling for the Misted Hills coat project by weaving a scarf that uses all the yarns that I plan to use in the coat.

I like the direction this is taking.  The fabric will be soft and flexible.  The warp is Merino/Tencel from WEBS, set at 10 epi, except for the accent stripe at 20epi

The weft shown above is predominately the Merino/Tencel, with accents of unspun roving and handspun art yarn.  The darkest accents are a bit of sock yarn, whose origin escapes me. I think it was from Metaphor Yarns. I am still looking for a yarn in soft grey, white and pale lavender. There needs to be more mist in this fabric.

Yes, I am still annoyed at the beater on my loom, even though I have it under control right now.  I’m debating whether I can have one of the heavy maple parts replaced with a replica in lighter weight wood.  Cedar? I am also considering the purchase of a SAORI loom.  I don’t enjoy having a loom that I struggle with when I am tired.

I only threaded two harnesses for this project. At least the treadling is much lighter this way. I am not planning to work any patterning into this design.

Ask what the cloth knows

Autumn Joy is off the loom.

The reality of freestyle weaving is that we cannot hide our feelings from our cloth. Whatever we are feeling when we sit down at the loom flows into our choice of color and effect, and especially into the density of the cloth.

I weave on a Schacht floor loom. It’s a heavy-handed loom, with a solid beater that you have to hold back more often than you have to beat with vigor. It’s a great loom for tightly woven upholstry fabric and table linens.  Shawls and scarves take attention. The delicate touch comes from the weaver, not from the loom. It takes energy and strength to restrain the beater, just letting it give an air kiss to the fell of the cloth.

When I started weaving Autumn Joy at the beginning of my studio retreat, I was tired and overwhelmed. I can feel that in the first few feet of my cloth(back and mannequin’s left shoulder below) . There’s a lot of stiffness and tension. I was no match for the weight of the beater.

In the middle section (front) , you can see where relaxation is creeping in.  The cloth is still a bit stiff at times, but there are small sections filled with whim and creativity.

The last section (mannequin’s right shoulder) is so diferent. It’s supple and filled with creative inclusions and sweeping areas of color, sometimes beat by my fingers rather than with the loom’s beater. The finish is deliciously ragged.

After wet finishing the fabric with a gentle soak in very hot water, I was surprised to find that I could use this fabric as a scarf after all.

SAORI kai in Manhattan (25 September 2010)

I had the pleasure to attend a SAORI kai (gathering of Saori weavers) at Loop of the Loom in Manhattan on Saturday. One of the precepts of SAORI weaving is that we learn from each other. I learned a great deal from this warm and friendly group of weavers.

Marie Suzaki has just finished an internship at Loop of the Loom, and she presented her collection of clothing and tapestries. Her work is lively and spontaneous, and blurs the lines between clothing and tapestry. Words can’t describe.  Marie’s work speaks eloquently for itself.

Note the tapestry on the wall in most of the photos?  It’s the gown shown in the last photo.

What fascinates me most is seeing the yards of fabric unrolled. A piece may be unified by some common theme of colors or density, but each thread is expressive of the moment at which it was woven.

Autumn joy

Autumn arrives tonight.  Blessings of the season to all my readers!

I am making good progress on the Autumn Joy scarf. I’ve woven the better part of a yard, and am absolutely ECSTATIC over combining two weave structures and yarns in a simple tapestry technique.

Isn’t that random patch of twill just AWESOME?

I always thread my plain weave on all four harnesses for balance, and I tied up both plain weave and twill for this project. To get this effect, I wove three shuttles, changing from plain weave to twill as I changed colors.  It took a bit of mental gymnastics and some simple footwork to open the correct pattern for each section. It’s slow and painstaking to weave.

I had dreamed this flowing combination of patterns a long time ago. I’m so thrilled that I made it happen.

Yes, I am still weaving

Don’t ask what has kept me away from my loom for so long. What matters is that I am back, and there’s a warp on my loom.

It’s a scarf named Autumn Joy, and my original design concept was to use three colors of yarn and a pair of dice to create a randomly striped scarf.

The Yarn:

Valley Yarns 2/14 Alpaca Silk from WEBS. 80% alpaca/20% silk

Colors: Eggplant, Sienna, Copper

3472 yards per pound, put up on half pound cones.

Sett: 18-20 epi.

As I stood in WEBS, designing in my mind, the warp would be random stripes of Sienna and Copper, and the weft would be solid Eggplant. Or maybe the weft would be mostly Eggplant with a few Sienna stripes.

It’s all well and good to design a scarf in your mind. What happens in the studio is quite another thing.

The Retreat:

All the things that have been keeping me away from my loom have left me exhausted, stressed and incoherent. I really needed to get away for renewal, but I was too exhausted to consider a trip to Kripalu or any of the beautiful places that restore my spirit.

I decided to take a two-day retreat in my own studio instead. I stocked the refrigerator with healthy food, put together a playlist of music ranging from new age to trance to Sanskrit chanting. I unrolled the yoga mat, lit some candles, and at the end of my practice, I set my intentions for the retreat. I would keep silence, listen to my inner voice, and take simple pleasure in whatever activities I chose.

I chose to weave the Autumn Joy scarf.

I decided to weave a 10-inch wide fabric at 20 epi. That’s 200 ends.  I wanted more Sienna than Copper, so I measured 120 ends of Sienna and 80 ends of Copper. I really did use the dice to determine where to place the colors.  I rolled one die for the Copper and two for the Sienna. The number I rolled determined how many pairs of ends to put into the stripe. I wonder if I had randomly sleyed the ends, would I have come up with something similar?

It took the better part of the first day to wind the warp and dress the loom. The Alpaca Silk is just a little bit sticky, but it is soft as a kitten and has a subtle sheen. I am not totally thrilled with the colors. The Copper is pale and insipid. I would if a verdigris green would have brought it to life in a way that the Eggplant cannot?

It doesn’t matter. These are the colors I have and they will tell their own story.

As I go about the familiar steps of dressing the loom, my mind is free to wander. The colors take me to Rhinebeck and memories of so many NY Sheep and Wool festivals. They also take me to Colorado, to memories of the pottery studio in Littleton.

I also ride the thin web of yarn into the future, to the little house with the potting shed and the inviting jumble of woven color. I realize that The Aerie can become that space right here and right now.  Why am I waiting?

Somewhere in the midst of these thoughts, I started weaving. First a stripe of Sienna to stabilize the warp, and then I began the Eggplant.  How dull. You didn’t think I would weave a plain, smooth striped scarf, did you?  I poked through my treasure baskets, and selected these accents.

The Treasures:

Fire – I spun this two-ply wool yarn a few years ago.  This was the sample skein and I have a lot more of it. As I recall, it was a painted roving from Louet. I will only weave the occasional single strand of this, because it is much heavier than the rest of the yarn.

Hyacinth – This is 2 strands of 2-ply Mongolian Cashmere from Jade Sapphire.

Rhinebeck – This was a custom dyed sock yarn that Seaport Yarn sold at the 2009 NY Sheep and Wool festival.  I told you this scarf is the color of Rhinebeck.

Cancer – I love this zodiac yarn from WEBS. Alas, it’s been discontinued for years.

The Weaving:

For the love of fine wooden tools

I have to tell you that a big part of my joy in weaving comes from my love of fine wooden tools. I love the color and grain of wood, and the way it feels in my hands. It is such a delight to handle a perfect shuttle, feeling the smooth contours and the silken finish.

In addition to the fiber I bought at the NY Sheep and Wool Festival, I bought these fine shuttles.

Rhinebeck 09 - 23The Birdseye Maple boat shuttle at the top was made by Jonathan Bosworth. It feels serious and sturdy in hand, and I really like the locking mechanism that lets you remove the spindle for those times when hairy yarn gets wrapped around it.

The red Bloodwood Swedish style shuttle is from Bluster Bay Woodworks. It is small and graceful, with a very low profile to glide through stubborn sheds.

Neither of these shuttles use my Schacht Bobbins. I plan to make paper quills using recycled junk mail, and use my Swedish bobbin winder to fill them.

Do you have a favorite shuttle?  Is it a work of art, or simply a workhorse?

Shades of green and iron

My tribe, the dear creative kindred spirits, bring me earthward and my discontent melts. Salad and green beans help me ground the pain of misunderstanding and sweet cider washes away the bitter taste of greed. All is not perfectly well, but much is better and I can breathe without the ragged breath of sobs overtaking me. Color has returned, the sweet green of the aged lock that guards my future. I am so over the coldness that overtook me on Saturday. I don’t need to fight petty obstacles that I can easily step over. I have things to do, roving to spin and fabric to weave. This is the way I usually feel after Rhinebeck. Stitches was just a wrong turn but I am back on my path and essentially unharmed. Thanks for your iron steadfastness and leafy vistas.

The day they locked up all the color

Continuing in the Colorless vein of my last post, I want to tell you about my trip to the Marketplace at Stitches East last Saturday.

Stitches East, if you aren’t familiar with it, is one of several regional knitters gatherings. You might compare it to NEWS in the weaving world, but with some critical differences.

It’s run by some knitting magazine, rather than by a knitter’s organization, and that created a cold atmosphere in my opinion.  Every little thing has a fee. I heard that the booth fees for vendors are outrageous. Even the demos were billed as Marketplace classes, with an attendant fee to be paid. There was one very generous weaver who gave free demos of the Ashford Knitter’s loom and invited people to give it a try. That was the spirit.

I don’t even have pictures to share with you.  Yep. That was forbidden. In all the years of attending fiber festivals like Rhinebeck, picture taking is at the discretion of the booth holder. You ask if you can take a picture for your blog, and they say yes or no.  End of story. I was too cold and stiff to take pictures at Rhinebeck, and was so looking forward to making up for it in the relative comfort of this indoor venue.

So, imagine if you will a convention center with nine rows of booths. There are black curtains dividing the booths, so the yarn displays are set in sharp contrast to the backdrops.  Most booths are clever displays of ordinary commercial yarn, but here and there, there is some of the most beautiful artisan yarn that you ever saw. Or handmade buttons and shawl pins.

Gita Maria had the most beautiful scarves to knit, yarn sold with a coordinating enamel on silver shawl pin. They are a narrow crescent knitted from ribbon yarn, with long ribbon and glitz fringes.  You’ll have to wait until I knit mine to see how pretty they are, because their web site only shows the larger shawls.

Kipuka Trading had sari silk ribbon, gorgeous bright strips sewn together to make yarn. I may cut it into narrower strips to weave, unless I use it as an accent in an otherwise light weight cloth. At the full width, beat firmly  it would create an interesting fabric for placemats or tote bags.

One booth was called the Incredible Stash Wall. The big corporate  sponsors of the event, yarn manufacturers,  each showcased five of their yarns. There were piles of short snippets below, to take home, and a large sheet of paper printed with descriptions, to stick the samples onto.  My snippets will go into my treasure basket, to be incorporated into some future weaving. Or not.

As pretty and glittery as it was, I felt lost without being able to use my camera.  I have scribbled notes on the back of receipts, and some of the vendors didn’t have their names on the receipts, much to my chagrin when I got home and tried to put things together.

I also felt out of place in the crowd. A lot of the knitters have very different interests than mine. Urban colors. Methodical work, not very spirited though well executed. Smooth, tame textures. Frump city. It was an older crowd, even the young people, and that’s a funny thing for this fifty-something to be saying.

People just didn’t interact much with strangers like they do at Rhinebeck. It was just plain cold.

Was there anything there for weavers?  Yes, if you like to incorporate knitting yarn into your work.

Will I go again next year?  Probably not. I’d rather freeze my fingers at Rhinebeck, than freeze my spirit in this colorless crowd.

Colorless

I am in Manhattan today after taking a wonderful break where I was immersed in color and texture.

I’m not impressed with what I am seeing. Black clothing. Tedious, suit-colored business suits. I have nothing in common with these people. They are not my tribe. I am sure they are interesting to someone, perhaps to themselves, but they do not interest me.  Even crows have better plumage than their unimaginative black, feathers rich with iridescent nuances.  Black is a good base color, a warp that ties together the random, glorious colors of weft. By itself, it’s not much for me.

I can’t wait to get back to the Aerie and surround myself with color.

Stormy Seas

Stormy Seas

I started spinning this roving before I left for Rhinebeck, thinking that I would clear out some space for something new. I’m still spinning it. This is the first skein, 65 yards of boucle with various wraps and cocoons. This is Ocean roving from Creatively Dyed, a merino/seacell blend. I plied it with Colrain Lace yarn from Webs, which is a beautiful and sturdy core yarn.