SAORI kai in Manhattan (25 September 2010)

I had the pleasure to attend a SAORI kai (gathering of Saori weavers) at Loop of the Loom in Manhattan on Saturday. One of the precepts of SAORI weaving is that we learn from each other. I learned a great deal from this warm and friendly group of weavers.

Marie Suzaki has just finished an internship at Loop of the Loom, and she presented her collection of clothing and tapestries. Her work is lively and spontaneous, and blurs the lines between clothing and tapestry. Words can’t describe.  Marie’s work speaks eloquently for itself.

Note the tapestry on the wall in most of the photos?  It’s the gown shown in the last photo.

What fascinates me most is seeing the yards of fabric unrolled. A piece may be unified by some common theme of colors or density, but each thread is expressive of the moment at which it was woven.

Autumn joy

Autumn arrives tonight.  Blessings of the season to all my readers!

I am making good progress on the Autumn Joy scarf. I’ve woven the better part of a yard, and am absolutely ECSTATIC over combining two weave structures and yarns in a simple tapestry technique.

Isn’t that random patch of twill just AWESOME?

I always thread my plain weave on all four harnesses for balance, and I tied up both plain weave and twill for this project. To get this effect, I wove three shuttles, changing from plain weave to twill as I changed colors.  It took a bit of mental gymnastics and some simple footwork to open the correct pattern for each section. It’s slow and painstaking to weave.

I had dreamed this flowing combination of patterns a long time ago. I’m so thrilled that I made it happen.

Yes, I am still weaving

Don’t ask what has kept me away from my loom for so long. What matters is that I am back, and there’s a warp on my loom.

It’s a scarf named Autumn Joy, and my original design concept was to use three colors of yarn and a pair of dice to create a randomly striped scarf.

The Yarn:

Valley Yarns 2/14 Alpaca Silk from WEBS. 80% alpaca/20% silk

Colors: Eggplant, Sienna, Copper

3472 yards per pound, put up on half pound cones.

Sett: 18-20 epi.

As I stood in WEBS, designing in my mind, the warp would be random stripes of Sienna and Copper, and the weft would be solid Eggplant. Or maybe the weft would be mostly Eggplant with a few Sienna stripes.

It’s all well and good to design a scarf in your mind. What happens in the studio is quite another thing.

The Retreat:

All the things that have been keeping me away from my loom have left me exhausted, stressed and incoherent. I really needed to get away for renewal, but I was too exhausted to consider a trip to Kripalu or any of the beautiful places that restore my spirit.

I decided to take a two-day retreat in my own studio instead. I stocked the refrigerator with healthy food, put together a playlist of music ranging from new age to trance to Sanskrit chanting. I unrolled the yoga mat, lit some candles, and at the end of my practice, I set my intentions for the retreat. I would keep silence, listen to my inner voice, and take simple pleasure in whatever activities I chose.

I chose to weave the Autumn Joy scarf.

I decided to weave a 10-inch wide fabric at 20 epi. That’s 200 ends.  I wanted more Sienna than Copper, so I measured 120 ends of Sienna and 80 ends of Copper. I really did use the dice to determine where to place the colors.  I rolled one die for the Copper and two for the Sienna. The number I rolled determined how many pairs of ends to put into the stripe. I wonder if I had randomly sleyed the ends, would I have come up with something similar?

It took the better part of the first day to wind the warp and dress the loom. The Alpaca Silk is just a little bit sticky, but it is soft as a kitten and has a subtle sheen. I am not totally thrilled with the colors. The Copper is pale and insipid. I would if a verdigris green would have brought it to life in a way that the Eggplant cannot?

It doesn’t matter. These are the colors I have and they will tell their own story.

As I go about the familiar steps of dressing the loom, my mind is free to wander. The colors take me to Rhinebeck and memories of so many NY Sheep and Wool festivals. They also take me to Colorado, to memories of the pottery studio in Littleton.

I also ride the thin web of yarn into the future, to the little house with the potting shed and the inviting jumble of woven color. I realize that The Aerie can become that space right here and right now.  Why am I waiting?

Somewhere in the midst of these thoughts, I started weaving. First a stripe of Sienna to stabilize the warp, and then I began the Eggplant.  How dull. You didn’t think I would weave a plain, smooth striped scarf, did you?  I poked through my treasure baskets, and selected these accents.

The Treasures:

Fire – I spun this two-ply wool yarn a few years ago.  This was the sample skein and I have a lot more of it. As I recall, it was a painted roving from Louet. I will only weave the occasional single strand of this, because it is much heavier than the rest of the yarn.

Hyacinth – This is 2 strands of 2-ply Mongolian Cashmere from Jade Sapphire.

Rhinebeck – This was a custom dyed sock yarn that Seaport Yarn sold at the 2009 NY Sheep and Wool festival.  I told you this scarf is the color of Rhinebeck.

Cancer – I love this zodiac yarn from WEBS. Alas, it’s been discontinued for years.

The Weaving:

Rainbow’s End

It took me four years to go from winding this rainbow warp to cutting this last length of fabric off the loom. I am not the same weaver I was when I began. I am not even the same person.

IMG_0084

Rainbow’s End is the resting point between life’s many journeys. As a weaver, my journey has been toward Saori free style weaving, a place outside the rule books, the place where instinct is all you need. As a person, it’s been a journey from a desperate need for absolutes, back toward a softer world of possibilities.

Rainbow’s End is the image of this transformation. The warp, with its regular stripes, is where I began. The weft, intuitive, yet made from mostly that same thread, is where I am today. My now empty loom is where I will begin my next journey.

IMG_0086

It took courage to plunge my smooth weaving into a tub of hot water. I was right to trust my instincts. The wool inlays are fine. The tightly spun worsted singles, steam-finished, didn’t shrink as much as the cotton. Don’t believe everything they tell you. Sometimes you have to take a chance.

IMG_0079

Amber cat says, “Chances. I take them.”

Letting go of old ideas

Last week, I had only questions.  Today I have answers and they are resoundingly YES! The color gamp is history, and I suppose I did learn something from it, if only to discover that I don’t like regular stripes of  huck lace.  What I do like is a random melange of soft Egyptian cotton for weft  (Thanks, Jojomojo, for the bag of goodies!). I like recycled sari silk. I like having a purpose for weaving but not a plan.

moving freely through the rainbow

It feels good to have no draft in front of me.

It feels good to have each throw of the shuttle be its own moment.

I don’t have words to describe  how it feels to be so present in the weaving.

I think this picture tells the whole story.

Unlearning

It is time that I unlearn how to weave.

It is time to let go of the notions of perfect selvedge and yards and yards of uniform fabric.

That warp that I painstakingly threaded with huck lace is a canvas upon which I can create.  What happens if I pull out a few warp threads?  Regroup the spacing on a few others? What, indeed?

What happens when I use a thick yarn for the warp? Recycled sari silk!!!

What happens when I soften the transitions from color to color, by creating stripes of varying widths?

What about knots! What indeed?

I haven’t felt this energized about weaving in years!

Bad advice

One of the worst pieces of weaving advice was given me when my floor loom was new. Let me tell you what it was and why it was such bad advice for me.

I was all excited to have a new loom, and was so eager to explore my loom.  I declared that I was going to put on 10 yards of black warp in plain weave and PLAY!

My erstwhile mentor told me that was the worst thing I could do, and tried to convince me to weave a color gamp first. I simply refused to do that, she then coerced me into picking a project and doing all sorts of wretched math first.  I ended up making a chenille scarf but didn’t really enjoy it.  I felt like the project was done before I started and I never felt present when I sat down at the loom.

Had my mentor understood me better, she would have realized that I wanted play with yarn texture, and mix all sorts of bright colors under the unifying black warp. I didn’t want to create something precise and mechanical. She never looked at me as a person, just as a potential weaver to be molded in her style. She never realized that I usually wear a combination black and bright colors. That I’m not fashionable, but that I  have a strong personal style.

Lately, I have been reading about Saori weaving. Ironically, it often begins with a long black warp in plain weave.  Interesting.