The hills are complex in color

Nina stopped by my studio today and found me sitting in the middle of the floor, sorting through the basket of yarn and treasures that I collected for the Misted Hills project. I have 22….23…24…maybe a couple more bits that I forgot to count.

The hills are complex in color.  On a misty morning, there are shades of grey, pale green, pale blue and lavender. As the mist lifts, stronger greens, blues and purples emerge.

I use color in broad sweeps, as though I were drawing with soft pastels. Do you weave with as many colors as I do?  More? Less? Tell me about your approach to color.

Misted Hills

It’s damp and chilly in the Aerie this morning. I am glad to be wearing a scarf around my neck, and even more glad to be weaving another one.  I am sampling for the Misted Hills coat project by weaving a scarf that uses all the yarns that I plan to use in the coat.

I like the direction this is taking.  The fabric will be soft and flexible.  The warp is Merino/Tencel from WEBS, set at 10 epi, except for the accent stripe at 20epi

The weft shown above is predominately the Merino/Tencel, with accents of unspun roving and handspun art yarn.  The darkest accents are a bit of sock yarn, whose origin escapes me. I think it was from Metaphor Yarns. I am still looking for a yarn in soft grey, white and pale lavender. There needs to be more mist in this fabric.

Yes, I am still annoyed at the beater on my loom, even though I have it under control right now.  I’m debating whether I can have one of the heavy maple parts replaced with a replica in lighter weight wood.  Cedar? I am also considering the purchase of a SAORI loom.  I don’t enjoy having a loom that I struggle with when I am tired.

I only threaded two harnesses for this project. At least the treadling is much lighter this way. I am not planning to work any patterning into this design.

Ask what the cloth knows

Autumn Joy is off the loom.

The reality of freestyle weaving is that we cannot hide our feelings from our cloth. Whatever we are feeling when we sit down at the loom flows into our choice of color and effect, and especially into the density of the cloth.

I weave on a Schacht floor loom. It’s a heavy-handed loom, with a solid beater that you have to hold back more often than you have to beat with vigor. It’s a great loom for tightly woven upholstry fabric and table linens.  Shawls and scarves take attention. The delicate touch comes from the weaver, not from the loom. It takes energy and strength to restrain the beater, just letting it give an air kiss to the fell of the cloth.

When I started weaving Autumn Joy at the beginning of my studio retreat, I was tired and overwhelmed. I can feel that in the first few feet of my cloth(back and mannequin’s left shoulder below) . There’s a lot of stiffness and tension. I was no match for the weight of the beater.

In the middle section (front) , you can see where relaxation is creeping in.  The cloth is still a bit stiff at times, but there are small sections filled with whim and creativity.

The last section (mannequin’s right shoulder) is so diferent. It’s supple and filled with creative inclusions and sweeping areas of color, sometimes beat by my fingers rather than with the loom’s beater. The finish is deliciously ragged.

After wet finishing the fabric with a gentle soak in very hot water, I was surprised to find that I could use this fabric as a scarf after all.

Autumn joy

Autumn arrives tonight.  Blessings of the season to all my readers!

I am making good progress on the Autumn Joy scarf. I’ve woven the better part of a yard, and am absolutely ECSTATIC over combining two weave structures and yarns in a simple tapestry technique.

Isn’t that random patch of twill just AWESOME?

I always thread my plain weave on all four harnesses for balance, and I tied up both plain weave and twill for this project. To get this effect, I wove three shuttles, changing from plain weave to twill as I changed colors.  It took a bit of mental gymnastics and some simple footwork to open the correct pattern for each section. It’s slow and painstaking to weave.

I had dreamed this flowing combination of patterns a long time ago. I’m so thrilled that I made it happen.

Yes, I am still weaving

Don’t ask what has kept me away from my loom for so long. What matters is that I am back, and there’s a warp on my loom.

It’s a scarf named Autumn Joy, and my original design concept was to use three colors of yarn and a pair of dice to create a randomly striped scarf.

The Yarn:

Valley Yarns 2/14 Alpaca Silk from WEBS. 80% alpaca/20% silk

Colors: Eggplant, Sienna, Copper

3472 yards per pound, put up on half pound cones.

Sett: 18-20 epi.

As I stood in WEBS, designing in my mind, the warp would be random stripes of Sienna and Copper, and the weft would be solid Eggplant. Or maybe the weft would be mostly Eggplant with a few Sienna stripes.

It’s all well and good to design a scarf in your mind. What happens in the studio is quite another thing.

The Retreat:

All the things that have been keeping me away from my loom have left me exhausted, stressed and incoherent. I really needed to get away for renewal, but I was too exhausted to consider a trip to Kripalu or any of the beautiful places that restore my spirit.

I decided to take a two-day retreat in my own studio instead. I stocked the refrigerator with healthy food, put together a playlist of music ranging from new age to trance to Sanskrit chanting. I unrolled the yoga mat, lit some candles, and at the end of my practice, I set my intentions for the retreat. I would keep silence, listen to my inner voice, and take simple pleasure in whatever activities I chose.

I chose to weave the Autumn Joy scarf.

I decided to weave a 10-inch wide fabric at 20 epi. That’s 200 ends.  I wanted more Sienna than Copper, so I measured 120 ends of Sienna and 80 ends of Copper. I really did use the dice to determine where to place the colors.  I rolled one die for the Copper and two for the Sienna. The number I rolled determined how many pairs of ends to put into the stripe. I wonder if I had randomly sleyed the ends, would I have come up with something similar?

It took the better part of the first day to wind the warp and dress the loom. The Alpaca Silk is just a little bit sticky, but it is soft as a kitten and has a subtle sheen. I am not totally thrilled with the colors. The Copper is pale and insipid. I would if a verdigris green would have brought it to life in a way that the Eggplant cannot?

It doesn’t matter. These are the colors I have and they will tell their own story.

As I go about the familiar steps of dressing the loom, my mind is free to wander. The colors take me to Rhinebeck and memories of so many NY Sheep and Wool festivals. They also take me to Colorado, to memories of the pottery studio in Littleton.

I also ride the thin web of yarn into the future, to the little house with the potting shed and the inviting jumble of woven color. I realize that The Aerie can become that space right here and right now.  Why am I waiting?

Somewhere in the midst of these thoughts, I started weaving. First a stripe of Sienna to stabilize the warp, and then I began the Eggplant.  How dull. You didn’t think I would weave a plain, smooth striped scarf, did you?  I poked through my treasure baskets, and selected these accents.

The Treasures:

Fire – I spun this two-ply wool yarn a few years ago.  This was the sample skein and I have a lot more of it. As I recall, it was a painted roving from Louet. I will only weave the occasional single strand of this, because it is much heavier than the rest of the yarn.

Hyacinth – This is 2 strands of 2-ply Mongolian Cashmere from Jade Sapphire.

Rhinebeck – This was a custom dyed sock yarn that Seaport Yarn sold at the 2009 NY Sheep and Wool festival.  I told you this scarf is the color of Rhinebeck.

Cancer – I love this zodiac yarn from WEBS. Alas, it’s been discontinued for years.

The Weaving:

Rainbow’s End

It took me four years to go from winding this rainbow warp to cutting this last length of fabric off the loom. I am not the same weaver I was when I began. I am not even the same person.

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Rainbow’s End is the resting point between life’s many journeys. As a weaver, my journey has been toward Saori free style weaving, a place outside the rule books, the place where instinct is all you need. As a person, it’s been a journey from a desperate need for absolutes, back toward a softer world of possibilities.

Rainbow’s End is the image of this transformation. The warp, with its regular stripes, is where I began. The weft, intuitive, yet made from mostly that same thread, is where I am today. My now empty loom is where I will begin my next journey.

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It took courage to plunge my smooth weaving into a tub of hot water. I was right to trust my instincts. The wool inlays are fine. The tightly spun worsted singles, steam-finished, didn’t shrink as much as the cotton. Don’t believe everything they tell you. Sometimes you have to take a chance.

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Amber cat says, “Chances. I take them.”

Metaphorically speaking

Before I left the village center of Shelburne Falls, I stopped at Wandering Moon (59 Bridge St.) They always have a great collection of handcrafted silver and gold jewelry. I was too focused on yarn to decide upon jewelry, so I left with only a small, marbled silk scarf in shades of purple and aqua.  I can make colour decisions no matter how focused I am on other things.

My next stop was Metaphor Yarns, and I was looking for yarns by local spinners and dyers that are not easy to find at home. Meta has a wonderful selection of basic and luxury yarns, but I was drawn to these three yarns by local artisans.

DSC02410 The grey yarn at the top is Twilight, a wool and alpaca twist, raised and spun by Barbara Parry of Foxfire Fiber. It has subtle blue and orchid accents.

The purple yarn in the middle is a marled yarn from Dragon Broook Yarns. It’s a Romney cross from a small farm in Shelburne. She sends her fleece to be mill-spun into singles, but dyes it in small batches and then plies it by hand.

The green yarn at the bottom is hand dyed especially for Metaphor Yarns by Gail Callahan, the Kangaroo Dyer. This colorway is Seafoam.

I intend to use all these yarns as accents in the weft of the Misted Hills coat

I was tempted to take home this entire basket of Barbara Parry yarns, but I left some for you, and headed south to meet a friend for dinner. If you like subtle Mexican food, La Veracruzana in Amherst is a real treat.

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North to Vävstuga

After buying warp at WEBS, I got back on I-91 and headed north to Greenfield. Once again I was traveling in my own shadow. When my mother and I owned Elizabethan Arts, one of our supply trips, nicknamed the ‘triple crown of fabric’ took us up I-91 starting at Osgood’s in Springfield, MA to Northampton Fabric Company and then on to Eastern Textile in Greenfield. Northampton Fabric Company closed many years ago. This stretch of highway is rather pretty, and as I relaxed into the driving, I realized how much I miss the hills and the open green spaces.

Shelburne Falls is a pretty little river town, with charming shops and the Bridge of Flowers. I chose to park on the opposite side of the river and walk back to Vävstuga on its garden-lined path.

I opened the door of the tiny yellow shop and fell in love with the tiny red loom, the handwoven shop curtains, and the inviting, welcoming staff.  I was so stunned that I stopped taking pictures. I wasn’t so stunned to walk out without any yarn. Oh no. I will have accent stripes in my weft that remind me of this lovely studio. Some really smooth Bockens Mobelatta came home with me, as did a temple for those times when I care about my selvedges.

I wanted to take a Glimakra Standard loom home with me, but the Aerie is simply too small for it. I must return someday to take a class at Vävstuga, weave on the classically beautiful looms, and stay in the charming guest quarters upstairs.

Seeing beyond ordinary

I was resigned to hanging the dutiful square little color gamp on the wall behind my loom. After I hemmed the top and fringed the bottom, of course. How traditional and ordinary. That was how I felt about the entire exercise. It was just ordinary.  I was ready to move on.

First, I needed a rod to hang it from, and I went rummaging in the umbrella stand. Found one umbrella, a paper parasol, a shepherd’s crook, and assorted rough walking sticks.  Hmmm. Here was a branch from Aunt Maple, the beautiful old tree that once stood outside the Aerie window. Perfect, just perfect. The weaving fits on one end, completely off center, like a flag. YES!

I quickly turned a blind hem to make a casing and tied a simple fringe at the bottom, leaving it ragged.  YES! YES! YES!

Altar-flag

Forget about hanging it behind the loom. It belongs here, above the altar of the Woodland God.

Letting go of old ideas

Last week, I had only questions.  Today I have answers and they are resoundingly YES! The color gamp is history, and I suppose I did learn something from it, if only to discover that I don’t like regular stripes of  huck lace.  What I do like is a random melange of soft Egyptian cotton for weft  (Thanks, Jojomojo, for the bag of goodies!). I like recycled sari silk. I like having a purpose for weaving but not a plan.

moving freely through the rainbow

It feels good to have no draft in front of me.

It feels good to have each throw of the shuttle be its own moment.

I don’t have words to describe  how it feels to be so present in the weaving.

I think this picture tells the whole story.